If a thin place, as they say, is a place where heaven and earth come closer together, then this must be the very thinnest of places indeed. The unbelievable clarity and stillness of the water gave rise to mind-bending refraction effects – the lakebed shifted shapes like in a dream, and grasses grew taller when I approached as if they were springing to life before my eyes. I paddled in awe-struck silence, a pilgrim at the altar of nature.